A Rom-Com Brought Me to Torino
Once I got there, a crush became a love affair.
In the blue violet of an early morning, a camera pans across an unfamiliar skyline in Italy: terra cotta roofs, centuries-old grandeur, a monumental tower that pierces the mist, and snow-capped mountains in the near distance. The camera swoops down, closing in on an apartment with arched windows and a sweet terrace.
A young woman’s voiceover, in Italian: “You recognize these mornings right away, when you know nothing will go right.”
True, that…and don’t we all have those days?
An alarm clock wails, it’s 7:45. The young woman continues, “Well, best to start these days as late as possible.” She drags herself out of bed and stumbles across a floor strewn with wads of tear-stained tissues to the bathroom, where, of course, she’s run out of TP, having used up her last roll during the weepfest the night before. Cazzo. This is the all-purpose Italian curse for life’s fuck-ups. In this dark hilarity, I see a version of a younger me, if I’d spent my early career days in this cute one-bedroom in whatever Italian city this is, instead of a roach-infested railroad in New York City, my hometown. And just like that, I was hooked.
It’s true—my first introduction to Torino, the northern Italian capital of the Piedmont region, was a Netflix series: An Astrological Guide for Broken Hearts. This is not my usual fare, but as an avid student of Italian, I’m always on the hunt for shows and movies to watch. I’d never been to Torino, and I’m a skeptical Cancer when it comes to astrology, but thanks to the mesmerizing opening scene, I kept watching and loved it all.
On the rainy morning of episode one, Alice Bassi, a thirty-something TV production assistant still recovering from a breakup two years earlier, has just discovered that her ex (an Aquarius with commitment issues) is about to marry his suddenly-pregnant girlfriend. Upon arrival at work in the historic industrial warehouses of Docks Dora—late, drenched, hungover—she also discovers that her company’s longtime morning show has been cancelled, leaving her job in jeopardy.
Seeking comfort in a bathroom stall (the men’s room, by mistake), she meets freelance actor and amateur astrologer Tio, a live-in-this-fluid-moment Gemini, who pegs her immediately as a balance-and-order-craving Libra. Later, over lunch, he explains that Saturn—the planet of challenge and hardship—will soon transit from Libra into Scorpio. This shitty phase of her life will pass! Anyway, he adds, her Aquarian ex was a bad match. Find a Leo, he suggests. As if one could shop for well-matched boyfriends at the grocery store. This is a rom-com, so we can hope that the universe has big plans in aisle five.
When a subsequent date with a caddish Aries unravels, her inscrutable and seriously handsome new boss Davide (another astrology skeptic, sign unknown) gives her a lift home on his motorcycle. Inspired by the display of stars and planets overhead and her chats with Tio, she comes up with an idea that turns her work life around: a new astrology game show that becomes a surprise hit.
The universe begins to realign in her favor. Meanwhile, Alice navigates Torino in her shabby green Fiat, changes a flat tire in orange suede high-heeled booties, quaffs plenty of cocktails with best friend and harried working mom Paola (a Taurus), tries out a Gemini (sexually self-absorbed) and a Scorpio (too young, like way too young), gets over her ex, survives a mishap with an herb-sauced snail at the famous Del Cambio restaurant, helps deliver a baby (in the green Fiat), until she finally finds love with a passionate Leo sun, Libra rising. (Phew! Take a breath!) You’ve probably guessed who that is.
I added Torino to the itinerary of a long-planned trip with Leah (a longtime friend, colleague, fellow Italian student, and super-organized Virgo). And, like Alice Bassi, Leah knew a guide for our journey: her design client Ed Garrubbo, a Rome-based expat who organizes specialty food tours, who gave us his must-visit list.
My crush on Torino transformed into a full-on lovefest in the taxi ride from the train station to our rented apartment. It’s easy to see why this former royal capital for the House of Savoy has become a set for historical dramas; the skyline, dominated by the Mole Antonelliana tower, hasn’t changed for centuries. We munched bags of fresh-roasted chestnuts as we walked beneath the covered porticos of Torino’s gracious pedestrian-friendly streets and piazzas, explored the stunning indoor arcade Galleria Subalpina and the broad boulevards that led us to the River Po. Since Leah and I are both graphic design geeks, we obsessed over the well-preserved vintage signage that adds to the timeless charm of the city’s historic neighborhoods. Surrounded by the dramatic backdrop of the Dolomiti mountains, Torino has a sophisticated vibe as an international cultural center with a unique cuisine inflected by its proximity to France. If—like me—you love chocolate, coffee, homemade agnolotti and tagliolini drenched in an earthy umami of fresh truffles and accompanied by wine cultivated in surrounding hills, you’ll be in heaven.
Best of all, we discovered Torino’s beauty and extraordinary range of flavors with a sense of peace and ease, without herds of tour buses and screeching American college kids.
Torino offered me a chance to experience an Italian city that still feels home to Italians, a pleasure I also experienced in Trieste a few years ago. We shopped for prepared foods in local rosticcerie and cooked meals with fresh vegetables and pasta purchased at the sprawling open-air food market in Porta Palazzo. Nearby is the weekend antique/flea Balon Market, where Alice Bassi buys a pair of exceptionally goofy sunglasses.
Everywhere we walked, I wanted to ask all the stylish women where they shopped; some good luck and research led us to a motherlode of adventurous fashion, both current and vintage. In this way, Torino has some of the edge and energy of New York City without the traffic and anger management issues. And like native Torinesi looking for a weekend or summer getaway, we took advantage of the city’s proximity to the Ligurian coast, a short train ride away. I offer below a sampling of worthy experiences, should you decide to follow the planets and stars to Torino.
Opened in 1874, this Parisian-inspired indoor arcade will give you a sense of Torino’s spacious grandeur. Inside, under the shelter of a glass roof, you’ll find a range of caffés, shops, and a movie theater with Deco-style neon signage.
You can book tickets to see opera, ballet, concerts, and lectures at this stylish venue, centrally located in a pedestrian-friendly piazza. If you’re traveling with children, the theater offers family-friendly programming.
We ate our first dinner in Torino at this wine bar/restaurant, situated in an airy space close to the river district. Cuisine is hyper-local, with wine offerings from all over, but focused on Piedmont.
When you arrive at this tiny, historic caffé, there will be a line. It’s worth the wait to sample the most famous version of Biccerin, a silky concoction of espresso and melted chocolate that will rocketfuel the rest of your day.
Torino turns out to be a city packed with cocktail bars. We were delighted to find stellar small plate food offerings at La Drogheria, so we tried almost everything on the menu and called it dinner. Afterwards, we took a walk down Via Vittorio Veneto, lit up on a weekend night with fanciful neon installations.
At this legendary restaurant, founded in 1757 and relaunched in 2014, we were rewarded with a spectacular Sunday lunch: their interpretation of agnolotti del plin and Tajarin (local dialect for tagliolini) followed by filet of sole, wine from Piedmont, and a seasonal dessert that featured local chestnuts.
Serie Numerica Women’s Clothing
Women’s wear for the bold, where my friend and I purchased what she calls “pants of joy,” sculptural knitwear, and a quirky, hand-stitched wool jacket so gorgeous and comfortable I want to sleep in it. The location on via Santa Chiara is an outlet shop where you can find great deals on this high-end brand, not to mention attentive assistance from the staff.
The high-domed tower of the Mole Antonelliana dominates the city skyline. Originally planned as a synagogue, the architect went way over budget and the project was later repurposed. Now it is the site of the National Museum of Cinema (a romantic first-kiss setting for Alice and her Leo sun guy). In addition to permanent collections such as the moped from Roman Holiday, memorabilia from Star Wars, Jaws, and shoes worn by Marilyn Monroe, special exhibitions and movie screenings change throughout the year. Take the elevator to the top of the tower for a spectacular view of the city and the surrounding Dolomiti mountains.
Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna
GAM, Torino’s contemporary art museum, is the perfect size for a visit to its permanent and special exhibitions. Recent exhibitions include works by the French Impressionist painter Berthe Morisot, American abstract painter Mary Heilmann, and Italian multi-media artist Maria Morganti. The museum has re-imagined its permanent collection, where you’ll find an excellent overview of Italian art, including some stunning works by Morandi, a native of the Piedmont region.
Summer is for black truffles and October is white truffle season. We love truffles of any color, so we took a day trip to the nearby medieval town of Alba to sample as many dishes as possible. The narrow streets were packed with visitors during the annual festival, but Ed sent us to this restaurant, located on a quiet side street, where lunch service is unhurried and the wine list superb.
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another terrific piece ♥️
Thank you for sharing your tryst with Torino, Julie. Got me dreamin...